When the Portuguese
sailed around Africa in the 16th century, one of the
greatest cities on the coast of what is now Tanzania was Kilwa. It
was then one of the centres of Swahili civilisation. The Portuguese
made its ruler accept the sovereignty of the king of Portugal and
built a fortress. The Portuguese made the same with other Swahili
cities but whereas other cities, like Zanzibar or Mombasa, later
became prosperous, fortunes of Kilwa declined and eventually the city
was abandoned. Only ruins now remain, where sheep from a nearby
village run between pillars of once magnificent mosque and baobabs
grow through the walls of ancient palaces. The city stood on an
island which was supposed to provide safety, nowadays one can go
there with a Swahili sailor in a wind-blown dhow.
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