From the times of
Muhammad there is a war within Islam between the fundamentalists, who
say that jihad should be understood as a real war and that infidels
must be killed, and the sufis who say that jihad is an inner war
within one's soul between an egoistic infidel which is to be killed
and the true inner believer who sees all people as children of God.
There is a war between Wahhabis who say there are no saints and all
mausolea must be blown up and the dervishes who treat their Sufi
teachers as saints, build mausolea for them and make pilgrimages
there to be close to the masters even after their death. The fundamentalists
hate the dervishes but the dervishes refuse to hate anybody,
including their oppressors. One of those
great Sufi teachers was Shah Nematullah who lived in the 15th
century and whose tomb is in the village of Mahan, close to the city
of Kerman, in the desert of central Iran.
I went there (almost a
decade ago) and found a charming place with an atosphere of quiet
prayer, very different from gaudy and crowded Shiah mausolea near
Tehran. A relaxed atmosphere where men and women pray together in
mixed groups – very unusual in the present-day Iran, men and women
are strictly separated in mosques. It is interesting that
the mausoleum is open because the Iranian regime persecutes the
Sufis, including the Nematullahi order.
More about Shah Nematullah
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Deserts and mountains around Mahan. |
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Minaret of the mausoleum of Shah Nematullah |
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Inside the mausoleum courtyard. |
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Courtyard of the mausoleum of Shah Nematullah. |
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A door inside the mausoleum of Shah Nematullah. |
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A portrait of Shah Nematullah over his tomb. |
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The dome above the tomb of Shah Nematullah. |
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A quiet prayer in the mausoleum. |
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